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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.